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Old 2nd September 2008, 08:10 PM   #21
Martin F
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Just having the uprated headgasket to prevent it going in the future paul told me when you remove the head it twists slightly so thats the reason you have to skim the head thats what i have been told and the thicker headgasket ends up only been around .5mm thicker than stock headgasket so not a major difference, he has also done the leak test before removing the head and all is fine i trust his judgement on this and Dunk i do not think your getting on my case your like my older brother much older lol
OK, just to clarify something, i'm purely trying to give advice here to try and assist, because something is not ringing true with either the advice your mechanic is giving or what you are posting here.


As the other guys have said, it's generally accepted not to remove the head unless you have good reason to. I thought your mechanics reason for removing the head was to do the stem seals, which can be done without removing the head but some mechanics preference may be to remove the head. If he is removing the head on a 58k good condition engine just to have a look i'd walk away now before he inflates your bill further.

As for upgrading the stock headgasket, what a 'croc of shit' that is. Have you ever heard of problems with the stock headgasket? (unlike MKIII's) A lot of guys in the states running big power continually use the Toyota gasket for good reasons, it's a good quality part.

The heads can warp when they are removed, but it's not necessarily the case and there is a good procedure in the Toyota manual for checking the head once it is removed to see if it needs skimming.

By my (very) crude calculations by fitting a headgasket 0.5mm thicker than stock, your compression ratio will go from 8.5:1 to 8.1:1 (may want to get somebody else to double check these calcs, like your mechanic) which will result in a slight decrease in performance off boost, but may allow slightly higher boost. Are you sure that is your desired result?
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Old 3rd September 2008, 02:18 PM   #22
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OK, just to clarify something, i'm purely trying to give advice here to try and assist, because something is not ringing true with either the advice your mechanic is giving or what you are posting here.


As the other guys have said, it's generally accepted not to remove the head unless you have good reason to. I thought your mechanics reason for removing the head was to do the stem seals, which can be done without removing the head but some mechanics preference may be to remove the head. If he is removing the head on a 58k good condition engine just to have a look i'd walk away now before he inflates your bill further.

As for upgrading the stock headgasket, what a 'croc of shit' that is. Have you ever heard of problems with the stock headgasket? (unlike MKIII's) A lot of guys in the states running big power continually use the Toyota gasket for good reasons, it's a good quality part.

The heads can warp when they are removed, but it's not necessarily the case and there is a good procedure in the Toyota manual for checking the head once it is removed to see if it needs skimming.

By my (very) crude calculations by fitting a headgasket 0.5mm thicker than stock, your compression ratio will go from 8.5:1 to 8.1:1 (may want to get somebody else to double check these calcs, like your mechanic) which will result in a slight decrease in performance off boost, but may allow slightly higher boost. Are you sure that is your desired result?
When the mechanic did the leak test one cylinder was a tad low hence removing the head but he then found that it was something else causing the slight low compression (i think it was the head gasket that caused it) as for the lower compression ratio then i would like it to be as standard but if thats what i have to go with then thats what i will do i trust his judgement over myself as he has been tuning supra's a lot longer than me thats why i take it somewhere that is skilled in this area, you can't take your car somewhere and then keep ringing them up telling them how you want your car tuning as you might aswel do it yourself my understanding about lowering the compression ratio is you lower the chance of the engine causing detination but the down sind is tad more lag because the burn front of the fuel has changed.

One question has anybody who is saying this is the wrong way of doing this, have you been out in a car that has had this done this way over the other way and noticed that much lag it was noticeable??
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Old 7th September 2008, 08:00 AM   #23
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You liked that one Matt
Very funny
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Old 7th September 2008, 09:37 AM   #24
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Very funny
Sorry Dunk
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Old 17th September 2008, 07:20 AM   #25
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Any news Adam ? must be all done by now
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Old 18th September 2008, 05:09 PM   #26
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Any news Adam ? must be all done by now
Not done just yet he is doing this between jobs to keep the cost down for me and a project for himself so he can make all the pipework up for my car so when someone else wants a single set up he will use all the parts that he had to make up on mine and send them to the metal workers and have some set up, can't wait to get it back now and all this good weather is doing my nut in lol

Paul is trying to sort out this bad name thats chris has left him with hope he does
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Old 26th September 2008, 06:46 AM   #27
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Any news yet m8, looking forward to seeing the end result and get a test drive
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Old 26th September 2008, 03:37 PM   #28
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Going up saturday to see what he has done and maybe t will be ready but not holding my breath, will be ready for sure on wednesday as i am going away on friday to devon so told him thats his cut off point. I will ring you as soon as i get it back and have a few runs out in it to make sure its all ok
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Old 27th September 2008, 09:42 AM   #29
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Hope it's good news today Adam
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Old 28th September 2008, 08:29 PM   #30
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How did you get on Adam? Hope all is well.
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