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Old 30th May 2010, 08:10 AM   #1
dorset steve
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Default amp and spoiler relay

Good morning everybody , my stereo head unit is a JVC KDL 551/2 , and has been installed for 4 years .I had nightmares with people who thought they could install the head and a new amp for me but couldn`t , and i ended up keeping the stock amp and brought a iso connecter to match up the head unit and existing wiring. The only wiring that changed was the speaker wires ,instead of coming from the amp the connecter block going to the amp was cut and the wires were connected up to the head unit. All has been fine, the unit has worked, but it wasnt really that good, no real bass from it. anyway a few days ago it started cutting out ,mainly going over bumps,coming back on and the aerial was up and down like a whores draws(apparently). I took it all apart and checked the wiring and all looked ok(visual check only), so i put it back together and still nothing. Then yesterday i tried it and the radio came on, the aerial worked, lovely, great but this was in my drive, stationary. OK i thought its dry ,so after looking on the forum, taking notes ec i took the passenger seat out stripped out the amp and the associated wiring (thinking the old amp is broken -- i had heard clicking sounds coming from it earlier when it was trying work), What i hoped to do was to bypass the amp and just have the (original) speakers and sub connected to the head unit. I came back on the computer to check the colour codes of some of the wires going to the head unit,and tho i couldnt find any, i saw a post that said THE AMP SUPPLYS POWER TO THE SPOILER RELAY ARGH !!!! oh dear, my head hurts now. I want the spolier to work, What can i do ?? at some stage i was hoping to put another amp in its place after reading that the original items arent very good and go from there, but for now i was hoping to by pass the amp and just have the speakers wired direct to the head unit. I have seen iso connecters that by- pass the amp and every thing is left in its place, but im not sure . Any help from your wonderfull minds would be appreciated , i didnt want to send it in to an installer, i can do it but have some what lost my way. thanks for now.
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Old 30th May 2010, 09:06 AM   #2
Martin F
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I don't believe the amp does supply power to the active spoiler. Apart from that being a very strange way for Toyota to wire things up, if you look at the diagrams linked to here: http://www.mkivsupraownersclub.com/f...ghlight=active there is no connection between the two.

I think what you're doing by eliminating the amp and excess wiring is probably a good way to go, just make sure nobody has used any of those PITA Scotch-Lok connectors, as they are usually responsible for intermittant connections if they have been used.
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Old 30th May 2010, 09:30 AM   #3
dorset steve
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Thx Martin for your quick response, u helped me a few years ago on a spoiler motor issue which i resolved quickly with your help. I did think it was strange i have to say, looking at the diagram, and the 30a fused supply needed i dont think it goes thru the amp to the spoiler. Ill proceed with the wire up see how we do, there has been some splicing going on behind the stereo, the car came (jap spec) with a toll reading device (for japenese motorways i suppose) and a telephone operating device(there are microphones either side of the windscren pillars), these have been cut in and still "live" there`s a japenese ladys voice that speaks to you when you tun the ignition on, not sure what she saying, but its nice !!!! Can i ask do the scotch connecters look like a mini suitcase that cut the wires when you close the lid ? .where can i find the colour coding for the wires ? thx again .Steve
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Old 30th May 2010, 10:03 AM   #4
dorset steve
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Found the colour codes, sounds stupid to ask, but i know whats what now !!!
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Old 30th May 2010, 12:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorset steve View Post
Can i ask do the scotch connecters look like a mini suitcase that cut the wires when you close the lid ?
Yep, they're the ones. If you have any remove them and either solder and heatshrink the joints or use crimp connectors.
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