Stuffed it!

Gambit · 20th September 2009, 07:27 PM

Yesterday I was fiddling in the boot, taping wires and anything that could cause a rattle. So today I thought I'd have a go at my dash.

I disconnected the battery before removing the dash so not to upset the air-bag, then I removed all instrument panels, kick panel and the radio, and proceeded to tidy up.

After several hours and feeling rather pleased with my efforts I put it all back together, everything seemed more solid and less likely to rattle.

We then decided to go out, it was still nice and sunny so I took the roof off and powered down the windows........ Or should I say window... The drivers side is non responsive. All the buttons on the drivers door work fine except the drivers window.

So it all came back out. I have two severed wires under the dash, one plain dark green wire that runs behind the dash and disappears into the carpet heading into the passenger foot well and a black earth wire which is bolted along with another earth into the bulk head, down and left of the steering wheel.

I could see no reason why these two would be connected but I thought I'd give it a go; when I touched them together it retracted my active spoiler, disconnected and touched again and the spoiler comes down?

Remember I have the blitz spoiler controller, but this and all it's wiring is clearly visible and no part of it is detached. Could it be that the good earth is attached to the spoiler module and receiving power from the green wire on contact with the broken earth???

If I pull the drivers window switch all the way down and release, about a second after there is a click noise from the door?

And now to top it all the battery is flat.

Picture of the wires:

Martin F · 21st September 2009, 08:53 AM

Bit hard to comment on this one. At least one of them was obviously not fitted in the factory.

Gambit · 21st September 2009, 09:10 AM

Today I jumpstarted the car and now the window works fine.

I see no reason that if you have a flat battery but still with enough power to work the passenger window off the drivers door and still able to run the headlights, the drivers window is dead..... But that appears to be the case.

I traced the green wire into the passenger foot well and as it was doing nothing I removed it.

20th September 2009, 07:27 PM	#1
Gambit Old Timer Jap Spec GZ - Auto Aerotop (TT) Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Worcester Posts: 2,089	Stuffed it! Yesterday I was fiddling in the boot, taping wires and anything that could cause a rattle. So today I thought I'd have a go at my dash. I disconnected the battery before removing the dash so not to upset the air-bag, then I removed all instrument panels, kick panel and the radio, and proceeded to tidy up. After several hours and feeling rather pleased with my efforts I put it all back together, everything seemed more solid and less likely to rattle. We then decided to go out, it was still nice and sunny so I took the roof off and powered down the windows........ Or should I say window... The drivers side is non responsive. All the buttons on the drivers door work fine except the drivers window. So it all came back out. I have two severed wires under the dash, one plain dark green wire that runs behind the dash and disappears into the carpet heading into the passenger foot well and a black earth wire which is bolted along with another earth into the bulk head, down and left of the steering wheel. I could see no reason why these two would be connected but I thought I'd give it a go; when I touched them together it retracted my active spoiler, disconnected and touched again and the spoiler comes down? Remember I have the blitz spoiler controller, but this and all it's wiring is clearly visible and no part of it is detached. Could it be that the good earth is attached to the spoiler module and receiving power from the green wire on contact with the broken earth??? If I pull the drivers window switch all the way down and release, about a second after there is a click noise from the door? And now to top it all the battery is flat. Picture of the wires: __________________ J-Spec Twin Turbo Aerotop 3G Brakes Blitz nur spec r Full Stainless DC Blitz Active Front Spoiler Controler Greddy Boost + EXT Gauges Running 1bar OZ Superleggera UK Spec Bonnet Scoop UK Glass Headlamps Mines ECU

21st September 2009, 08:53 AM	#2
Martin F Administrator UK Spec - Manual Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Essex, UK Posts: 10,226	Bit hard to comment on this one. At least one of them was obviously not fitted in the factory. __________________ Martin UK6TT + Bits & Bobs 'Remember folks, the inside lane isn't just for Xmas' MSOC FAQ MSOC Members Discounts MSOC Resources

21st September 2009, 09:10 AM	#3
Gambit Old Timer Jap Spec GZ - Auto Aerotop (TT) Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Worcester Posts: 2,089	Today I jumpstarted the car and now the window works fine. I see no reason that if you have a flat battery but still with enough power to work the passenger window off the drivers door and still able to run the headlights, the drivers window is dead..... But that appears to be the case. I traced the green wire into the passenger foot well and as it was doing nothing I removed it. __________________ J-Spec Twin Turbo Aerotop 3G Brakes Blitz nur spec r Full Stainless DC Blitz Active Front Spoiler Controler Greddy Boost + EXT Gauges Running 1bar OZ Superleggera UK Spec Bonnet Scoop UK Glass Headlamps Mines ECU

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